Monstera Adansonii Care: Light, Water and Bigger Leaves

The Infirmary | Swiss Cheese Vine

Monstera adansonii care is simple once you treat it as what it is: a climbing vine from the tropical Americas. NC State Extension says it prefers bright, indirect light, moist but well-drained soil, high humidity and temperatures above 50°F, and that indoors it should have a stake, trellis or moss pole to climb. Get light, watering and support right and the leaves stay large and full of holes.

The verdict Give your Monstera adansonii bright indirect light, keep the soil lightly moist but never soggy, raise the humidity, keep it above 50°F and give it something to climb. Small new leaves with fewer holes usually mean too little light or a vine that’s trailing instead of climbing.

Monstera Adansonii Care at a Glance

NeedWhat NC State Extension says
LightBright, indirect light; direct sun can scorch leaves
WaterKeep soil moist but well-drained; overwatering can cause root rot
SoilLoam with good drainage, slightly acidic
HumidityHigh; use a humidifier or a tray of wet pebbles
TemperatureAvoid cold drafts and temperatures below 50°F
SupportA stake, trellis or moss pole in the center of the pot
Size indoorsAbout 3 to 8 feet tall with support
PetsToxic if eaten (calcium oxalate crystals)

Source: NC State Extension Plant Toolbox: Monstera adansonii.

Monstera adansonii, also called Adanson’s monstera, Swiss cheese vine or five hole plant, is native from southern Mexico through tropical America (NC State). It is a smaller plant than Monstera deliciosa, with which it shares the name Swiss cheese plant. For the big-leaved relative, see our Monstera light requirements guide.

Light

NC State recommends bright, indirect light and warns that direct sun can scorch the leaves. In practice, that’s a spot near an east window, or a few feet back from a south or west window with a sheer curtain. UW-Madison Extension notes for its relative Monstera deliciosa that the leaf perforations won’t develop when light is inadequate, and the same pattern shows up in adansonii: in dim corners, new leaves come in smaller with fewer holes. If you don’t have a bright window, a grow light helps; see our guide to grow lights for indoor plants.

Watering and Soil

NC State says to keep the soil moist but well-drained, and warns that overwatering can result in root rot. The safest rhythm is a thorough watering when the top inch or so of mix has dried, with excess water allowed to drain away.

  • Use a draining mix. A chunky aroid mix with bark and perlite keeps air around the roots; see our aroid soil mix guide.
  • Use a pot with drainage holes and empty the saucer after watering.
  • Water less in winter, when growth slows and the mix dries more slowly.

Signs of overwatering

Yellowing leaves in soil that stays wet, a sour smell from the pot and soft, dark roots point to root rot. See our overwatered vs underwatered guide and root rot treatment guide.

Humidity and Temperature

NC State says Monstera adansonii prefers high humidity and suggests a humidifier or setting the pot on a tray of wet pebbles. Brown, crispy leaf edges are a common sign the air is too dry. Keep it out of cold drafts and above 50°F; it is only hardy outdoors in USDA zones 10 to 12.

Feeding: Iowa State University Extension recommends fertilizing houseplants only in spring and summer while actively growing, with general fertilizers at half or quarter strength, and none in winter. Too much fertilizer leaves salts that burn roots; see our guide to white crust on houseplant soil.

Climbing Support and Bigger Leaves

In the wild, Monstera adansonii climbs trees using its aerial roots, and NC State recommends giving indoor plants a stake, trellis or moss pole in the center of the container. UW-Madison describes its relative Monstera deliciosa the same way: a climbing vine that needs support for its aerial roots to attach to.

Climbing vines

Growers commonly find that vines trained up a moss pole or plank produce larger leaves with more holes than vines left to trail.

Trailing vines

A hanging adansonii can look great, but long trailing stems often produce smaller leaves further from the pot.

How to train it

Set the pole in the pot at repotting, then tie stems to it loosely with soft plant ties so the aerial roots face the pole. Keep a moss pole slightly damp so roots can grip it.

Why Are My Monstera Adansonii Leaves Getting Smaller?

What you seeLikely causeWhat to do
Smaller new leaves with fewer holesToo little light, or a long trailing vineMove to brighter indirect light; give it a pole to climb
Long gaps between leavesLow lightIncrease light; prune leggy stems and root the cuttings
Yellow leaves, wet soilOverwatering or root rot (NC State)Let the mix dry; check the roots
Brown, crispy edgesDry air, underwatering or salt buildupRaise humidity; water thoroughly; flush the mix
Pale scorched patchesDirect sun (NC State)Filter the light or move it back
Yellowing between the veins of new leavesOften a nutrient or pH issueSee our yellow leaves guide and pH lockout guide

Propagation and Pruning

NC State lists stem cuttings for propagation. Cut a stem just below a node (the bump where a leaf and aerial root grow), with at least one leaf attached, and root it in water, moist sphagnum moss or a light mix. Our guide to propagating in sphagnum moss covers a reliable method. Pruning leggy stems in spring or summer keeps the plant full, and the cuttings can go back into the same pot.

Pests and Problems

NC State lists spider mites, mealybugs, aphids, whiteflies and scale as pests to watch for, along with root rot from overwatering, rust, powdery mildew and blight. Check leaf undersides and stems when you water. See our guides to rubbing alcohol for mealybugs, scale and using neem oil on plants.

Is Monstera Adansonii Toxic to Pets?

Yes: keep it out of reach

NC State lists Monstera adansonii as toxic to humans and pets if eaten, because of calcium oxalate crystals that irritate the mouth, throat and digestive tract and can cause vomiting and drooling; the sap can also irritate skin, so wear gloves when pruning. The ASPCA lists the related Swiss cheese plant (Monstera deliciosa) as toxic to dogs and cats for the same reason. If your pet chews it, call your veterinarian or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435.

For safer choices, see our list of cat safe plants.

For other monsteras, see our guides to Monstera deliciosa care. To help it climb, see our guide to using a moss pole.

Key takeaway Monstera adansonii care comes down to bright indirect light, lightly moist but well-drained soil, high humidity, warmth above 50°F and a pole to climb. If new leaves get smaller with fewer holes, give it more light and let it climb rather than trail.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much light does a Monstera adansonii need?

Bright, indirect light, according to NC State Extension. Direct sun can scorch the leaves, while a dim spot leads to smaller leaves with fewer holes. An east window or a filtered south or west window works well.

How often should I water Monstera adansonii?

Keep the soil moist but well-drained, as NC State recommends, by watering thoroughly when the top inch or so of mix is dry. Overwatering can cause root rot, so never let the pot sit in water, and water less in winter.

Why are my Monstera adansonii leaves getting smaller?

Usually because of low light or a vine that’s trailing instead of climbing. Move it to brighter indirect light and train it up a moss pole or trellis, which NC State recommends for indoor plants.

Does Monstera adansonii need a moss pole?

It isn’t essential, but it helps. NC State suggests a stake, trellis or moss pole in the center of the container because the plant is a natural climber, and climbing vines tend to produce larger leaves.

Is Monstera adansonii toxic to cats?

Yes. NC State lists it as toxic to pets if eaten, because of calcium oxalate crystals that irritate the mouth and stomach and can cause vomiting and drooling. Keep it out of reach.

How do you propagate Monstera adansonii?

By stem cuttings, as NC State recommends. Cut just below a node with a leaf attached and root it in water, damp sphagnum moss or a light potting mix.

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