Anthurium Crystallinum Care: How to Grow Big Velvet Leaves

The Lab | Anthurium crystallinum Care

Anthurium crystallinum, the crystal anthurium, is grown for its leaves: dark, velvety green with white main veins that look etched onto the surface. Anthurium crystallinum care comes down to warmth, bright indirect light, high humidity and an open, fast-draining mix. The Royal Horticultural Society (RHS) gives it its Award of Garden Merit, rates it H1A (grown under glass all year, above 15 °C / 59 °F) and recommends keeping it above 18 °C (64 °F) in winter.

The verdict Keep a crystal anthurium warm (16 to 30 °C / 60 to 85 °F, never 10 °C / 50 °F or lower), in bright light out of direct summer sun, with raised humidity. Pot it in an open, acidic, peat-free mix (the RHS suggests 2 parts ericaceous compost, 1 part grit, 1 part orchid bark), water generously in the growing season with room-temperature rainwater or filtered water, water sparingly in winter, and feed with orchid fertilizer every two weeks from spring to autumn. All parts are toxic, so keep it away from pets.

Anthurium crystallinum Care Snapshot

FactorIdealAvoid
LightBright, indirect light; an east or west aspectDirect summer sun (scorch); deep shade
Temperature16 to 30 °C (60 to 85 °F); above 18 °C (64 °F) in winter10 °C (50 °F) or lower; cold drafts
HumidityHigh; stand the pot on a tray of moist gravel or use a humidifierDry, heated air right next to radiators
Mix2 parts ericaceous peat-free compost, 1 part grit, 1 part orchid barkDense, soggy compost
WaterRainwater or filtered, at room temperature; generous in growth, sparing in winterCold water; tap water; standing in water
FeedingOrchid fertilizer every 2 weeks, spring to autumnFeeding in winter
PetsKeep out of reachAll parts are toxic

Sources: RHS Anthurium crystallinum plant details; RHS anthurium guide; ASPCA.

What Is Anthurium crystallinum?

Anthurium crystallinum is an aroid (family Araceae) named by Linden and André in 1873. Plants of the World Online (Kew) gives its native range as Panama to Colombia, where it grows as an epiphytic subshrub, mainly in the wet tropical biome. In other words, in the wild it often grows on trees rather than in deep soil, which is why it wants an airy mix with plenty of bark.

The RHS describes broadly elliptic to ovate leaves up to 45 cm long, dark velvety green with white main veins, and narrow green spathes up to 8 cm long with a yellow spadix, produced on and off through the year. The flowers are modest; the leaves are the show.

It is often confused with Anthurium clarinervium. The RHS entries make the difference clear:

FeatureA. crystallinumA. clarinervium
Leaf shapeBroadly elliptic to ovateDeeply lobed (heart shaped), reflexed
Leaf lengthTo 45 cmTo 13 cm, on stalks to 15 cm
VeinsWhite main veinsPale green-white veins
Size0.1 to 0.5 m in the RHS databaseAbout 25 to 30 cm tall
HardinessH1AH1A

Sources: RHS plant details for A. crystallinum and A. clarinervium.

Care for the two is very similar; see our Anthurium clarinervium care guide. For the glossy red-flowered type, see our Anthurium andraeanum guide.

The Care Routine Through the Year

The RHS advice splits the year in two:

  • Spring to autumn (growing season): water generously, and feed with an orchid fertilizer every two weeks. This is also the time to repot or divide.
  • Winter: water sparingly, stop feeding, and keep the plant above 18 °C (64 °F).

All year, keep it in bright, indirect light with high humidity, away from cold windows and drafts. The RHS anthurium guide warns that anthuriums can be damaged or killed by temperatures of 10 °C (50 °F) or lower, or by cold water.

Remove old yellow leaves at the base with clean scissors. Dust the velvety leaves gently with a soft, dry brush or cloth rather than leaf-shine products, which can leave residue on the textured surface.

Light and Humidity

Light. The RHS anthurium guide recommends bright but indirect light: leaves scorch in direct summer sunlight, while too little light prevents flowering (and, for a foliage plant, means slow, stretched growth). The species entry suggests an east- or west-facing aspect. A spot a short distance back from a bright window, or behind a sheer curtain, works well. If new leaves come out smaller than the old ones on longer stalks, the plant probably needs more light; see our grow light guide for dim rooms.

Humidity. Anthuriums like high humidity, and the RHS suggests standing the pot on a tray of moist gravel or pebbles. In a heated home in winter, a humidifier nearby is more effective, and grouping plants together helps a little. Many growers keep crystal anthuriums in a cabinet or large terrarium for this reason. Whatever you do, keep some gentle air movement around the plant: the RHS lists leaf spot among its diseases, and velvety leaves that stay wet in still air are more prone to it. Water the mix, not the leaves.

Soil Mix and Watering

Mix. The RHS suggests an acidic potting mix of 2 parts ericaceous peat-free compost, 1 part horticultural grit and 1 part orchid bark. Its general anthurium guide asks for an open, fast-draining, peat-free acidic compost. The roots need air as much as water, so chunky ingredients matter more than any exact recipe; our aroid soil mix guide covers the options.

Water. The RHS says anthuriums dislike tap water and rainwater is best, with filtered water as the alternative. Let water reach room temperature first, since cold water can damage the plant. In the growing season, water generously, letting the excess drain away; in winter, water sparingly. A practical rule is to water again when the top few centimetres (about an inch) of mix feel dry. The RHS warns that leaving anthuriums in soggy compost for long periods causes root rot, so never leave the pot standing in water. If you suspect rot, see our root rot guide.

Pot. Use a pot with drainage holes, only slightly larger than the root ball. An oversized pot holds wet compost around the roots for too long.

Propagation

The RHS lists division, stem or rhizome cuttings and offsets in spring or summer, or seed sown at 24 to 27 °C (75 to 81 °F) as soon as it is ripe. For a home grower, division and stem cuttings are the practical options.

  1. Wear gloves (the sap irritates skin and eyes) and slide the plant out of its pot in spring or summer.
  2. Look for natural clumps or offsets that already have their own roots and leaves.
  3. Tease them apart gently, cutting with a clean knife where needed, and trim any soft, rotten roots.
  4. Pot each piece into fresh, open mix at the same depth it grew before.
  5. Keep the divisions warm, in bright indirect light and high humidity, and water lightly until new growth shows they have rooted.

On older plants, a section of stem with aerial roots and at least one leaf can also be cut and potted, or rooted first in moist sphagnum moss.

Is Anthurium crystallinum Toxic to Pets?

Toxic to cats, dogs and people

The RHS says all parts of anthuriums are toxic, and its crystallinum entry flags the plant as harmful if eaten and irritating to skin and eyes, so wear gloves when handling it. The ASPCA’s flamingo flower entry (for Anthurium scherzeranum, a close relative) lists it as toxic to dogs, cats and horses because of insoluble calcium oxalates, with signs such as oral irritation, pain and swelling of the mouth, tongue and lips, drooling, vomiting and difficulty swallowing. If a pet chews one, call your vet or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435.

Keep it on a high shelf or in a room pets can’t reach, or choose from our cat-safe plants list.

Common Problems and Fixes

SymptomLikely causeFix
Pale, scorched or bleached patchesDirect summer sunMove to bright, indirect light
Yellow lower leaves, soggy mix, mushy rootsOverwatering, root rotLet the mix dry more between waterings; repot rotten plants into fresh open mix
Brown, crispy edges; new leaves tearing as they openDry airRaise humidity with a humidifier or moist gravel tray
Brown or black spots on the leavesLeaf spot, often with wet leaves in still airWater the mix only, improve air movement, remove badly spotted leaves
Small new leaves on long stalksToo little lightMove closer to a bright window or add a grow light
Wilting or damaged leaves after a cold nightTemperature at or below 10 °C (50 °F), or cold waterMove away from cold glass and drafts; use room-temperature water
White cottony clusters or small brown bumpsMealybugs or scale insectsRemove by hand; see the pest guides below

Pests, diseases and temperature limits from the RHS; fixes are general practice.

The RHS lists mealybugs and scale insects as the main pests. Check leaf undersides and stem joins when you water. For treatment, see our guides to rubbing alcohol for mealybugs and armored scale on indoor plants. Test any spray on one leaf first, since velvety leaves mark easily. For a controlled, humid growing space indoors, see our guide to setting up a greenhouse cabinet. To help it climb, see our guide to using a moss pole.

Key takeaway A crystal anthurium needs warmth (never 10 °C / 50 °F or lower), bright light without direct summer sun, high humidity with gentle air movement, an open bark-rich mix, room-temperature rainwater or filtered water, and fortnightly orchid feed from spring to autumn. Water sparingly in winter, keep the leaves dry, and keep it out of reach of pets.

Frequently Asked Questions

How often should I water Anthurium crystallinum?

There is no fixed schedule. The RHS says to water generously in the growing season and sparingly in winter. Water when the top few centimetres of mix feel dry, let the excess drain, and never leave the pot standing in water.

Why are my Anthurium crystallinum new leaves small or damaged?

Small new leaves on long stalks usually point to too little light. New leaves that crisp or tear as they unfurl usually point to dry air. Give it bright indirect light and raise the humidity before the next leaf opens.

Why are my Anthurium crystallinum leaves turning yellow?

The oldest leaves yellow naturally. If several leaves yellow and the mix stays wet, suspect overwatering and check the roots. Bleached, pale patches point to direct sun instead.

Can I use tap water for Anthurium crystallinum?

The RHS says anthuriums dislike tap water and rainwater is best, with filtered water as the alternative. Whatever you use, let it reach room temperature first, since cold water can damage anthuriums.

Can Anthurium crystallinum grow outdoors?

Only in warm tropical climates. The RHS rates it H1A, meaning it needs to be under glass all year in the UK at above 15 °C (59 °F), and anthuriums can be damaged at 10 °C (50 °F) or lower. In most places it is a houseplant; a shaded summer spot outdoors is only safe while nights stay warm.

What is the difference between Anthurium crystallinum and clarinervium?

The RHS describes crystallinum leaves as elliptic to ovate and up to 45 cm long, while clarinervium has smaller, deeply lobed, heart-shaped leaves up to 13 cm long with pale green-white veins. Care is very similar.

Is Anthurium crystallinum toxic to cats?

Yes. The RHS says all parts of anthuriums are toxic, and the ASPCA lists anthurium (flamingo flower) as toxic to cats, dogs and horses because of insoluble calcium oxalates.

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