Anthurium Andraeanum Care: Light, Water and Getting Flowers

The Lab | Anthurium Andraeanum Care

The flamingo flower (Anthurium andraeanum), sold simply as “anthurium,” is grown for its glossy, heart-shaped red, pink or white spathes around a straight spadix. It can flower for much of the year indoors if it gets enough light, warmth and humidity. Anthurium care comes down to bright indirect light, an open, fast-draining acidic mix, rainwater or filtered water when the mix is nearly dry, and steady warmth. This guide follows the RHS, NC State Extension, UF/IFAS and the ASPCA. For the velvet-leaf species, see our Anthurium clarinervium and Anthurium crystallinum guides.

The verdict Give anthuriums bright, indirect light: direct summer sun scorches the leaves, and too little light stops flowering (RHS). Keep them at 18 to 30°C (65 to 86°F), away from cold draughts and heaters (RHS); temperatures of 10°C (50°F) or lower can kill them. Pot in two parts ericaceous peat-free compost, one part perlite and one part orchid bark (RHS). Water with room-temperature rainwater or filtered water once the mix is nearly dry about 5 cm (2 in) down, and never leave it soggy. Raise humidity, feed from April to October (the RHS suggests an orchid fertilizer; NC State notes high-phosphorus feeds encourage blooms), and remove spent flowers. All parts are toxic to pets (ASPCA).

What Is Anthurium Andraeanum?

Anthurium andraeanum is a tropical, evergreen member of the arum family (Araceae). NC State Extension says anthuriums are native to the Caribbean and Central and South America and thrive in warm, very humid conditions. The colorful “flower” is a modified leaf called a spathe; the true flowers are tiny and packed along the spadix. The RHS describes the spathes as long-lasting. The pigtail plant (A. scherzerianum), with its curled spadix, is a related flowering species grown the same way.

Anthurium Care at a Glance

NeedWhat the sources say
LightBright, indirect: east or west window, or south with a net curtain (RHS)
Temperature18 to 30°C (65 to 86°F) (RHS growing guide); 65 to 85°F (NC State); 10°C/50°F or lower can kill (RHS)
HumidityHigh; brown leaf tips if too low (NC State)
Compost2 parts ericaceous peat-free compost : 1 part perlite : 1 part orchid bark (RHS)
WaterRoom-temperature rainwater or filtered water when nearly dry 5 cm down (RHS)
FeedingApril to October; orchid fertilizer (RHS); high-phosphorus feeds encourage blooms (NC State)
RepottingEvery 2 to 3 years, one pot size up (RHS)
PetsToxic: insoluble calcium oxalates (ASPCA)

Sources: RHS How to grow anthuriums; NC State Extension; ASPCA.

Light, Temperature and Humidity

Light: the RHS growing guide recommends bright, indirect light, such as an east- or west-facing window, or a south-facing one with net curtains or thin blinds. Direct summer sun scorches the leaves, while too little light stops flowering. NC State agrees that too little light means fewer blooms and slower growth.

Temperature: the RHS guide gives 18 to 30°C (65 to 86°F) all year, out of cold draughts and away from direct heat, and warns that 10°C (50°F) or lower can damage or kill the plant. NC State gives 65 to 85°F and notes that anthuriums won’t survive winter outdoors in non-tropical climates.

Humidity: NC State says leaf tips turn brown if the humidity is too low. The RHS suggests misting the leaves regularly, standing the pot on a tray of moist gravel, grouping plants, or growing it in a bathroom. A small humidifier is the most effective option in heated rooms in winter. See our guide to dry indoor air.

Soil, Watering and Feeding

Compost: the RHS recommends an open, fast-draining, peat-free acidic mix: two parts ericaceous peat-free compost, one part perlite and one part medium orchid bark. In the wild many anthuriums grow on trees, so their roots need air. See our aroid soil mix guide.

Watering: the RHS says to water only once the compost is approaching dryness, checking about 5 cm (2 in) down with a finger, using rainwater or filtered water at room temperature, since tap water in hard-water areas can harm the plant and cold water can damage it. Leaving it in soggy compost for long periods rots the roots. NC State also says to water when the soil is dry to the touch and recommends rainwater or purified water. Water less in winter, when growth slows.

Feeding: the RHS suggests feeding regularly from April to October with an orchid fertilizer. NC State says a high-phosphorus fertilizer encourages more blooms. Either way, follow the label rate; too much fertilizer can burn leaf tips. See our fertilizer guide.

Getting Anthuriums to Flower

  • Light first: too little light stops flowering (RHS, NC State). Move it closer to a bright window.
  • Feed in the growing season: orchid or high-phosphorus fertilizer (RHS, NC State).
  • Remove spent blooms: NC State says pruning away old blooms encourages more. The RHS says to cut dead leaves and flower stems at the base.
  • Keep it warm and humid, without cold draughts.

Repotting

The RHS says anthuriums can stay in their original pot for a year or two, then should be repotted every two or three years into a pot only one size larger. A much bigger pot holds too much wet compost around the roots. Spring is a good time.

Propagation

The RHS lists three methods:

  1. Division: split a multi-stemmed plant into smaller plants, each with its own roots.
  2. Stem with aerial roots: cut a piece of stem with leaves and aerial roots, stand it in water in a warm, bright spot until it roots, then pot it up.
  3. Stem or rhizome cuttings: insert into peat-free acidic compost in a closed, heated propagator at 21°C (70°F).

NC State also mentions seed, but plants from seed are slow. Wear gloves, because the sap is an irritant (RHS). For a gentle rooting medium, see our sphagnum moss propagation guide.

Brown Leaves, Yellow Leaves and Other Problems

SymptomLikely causeSource
Brown leaf tips or edgesDry airRHS, NC State
Scorched, bleached patchesDirect summer sunRHS
No flowersToo little lightRHS, NC State
Wilting, yellowing, soft rootsRoot rot from soggy compostRHS, NC State, UF/IFAS
Yellow, water-soaked patches along leaf edgesBacterial blight (Xanthomonas)UF/IFAS
White cottony clustersMealybugsRHS, NC State
Fine stippling, webbingSpider mitesNC State

Sources: RHS; NC State Extension; Norman and Ali, UF/IFAS PP292.

Bacterial blight: UF/IFAS PP292 (Norman and Ali) describes the first symptoms as yellowed, water-soaked lesions along the leaf margins. Bacteria swim across wet surfaces and can enter through torn leaves or insect damage, and the disease spreads when flowers or old leaves are removed with unclean tools. UF’s advice for growers: keep foliage dry, sanitize tools between plants, and discard infected plants. At home, water at the base, avoid wetting the leaves of a plant that shows these symptoms, and isolate it.

Root rot: UF/IFAS says Rhizoctonia, Pythium and Phytophthora root rots are favored by water-saturated media and can usually be avoided with light, well-drained mixes. See our root rot guide.

Pests: NC State lists mealybugs, spider mites, whiteflies, scale, aphids and thrips. For mealybugs, see our rubbing alcohol guide; for mites, our spider mite guide.

Is Anthurium Toxic to Pets?

Yes. The ASPCA lists the flamingo flower (its entry names Anthurium scherzerianum, the closely related pigtail type) as toxic to dogs, cats and horses because of insoluble calcium oxalates, with oral irritation, pain and swelling of the mouth, tongue and lips, excessive drooling, vomiting (not in horses) and difficulty swallowing. NC State lists anthuriums in general as toxic if eaten (calcium oxalate crystals), and the RHS says all parts are poisonous and the sap is an irritant, so wear gloves. Keep it out of reach and call your veterinarian or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435 if a pet chews it. See our cat-safe plants list.

For other flowering houseplants, see our guides to hibiscus.

Key takeaway Anthurium care: bright, indirect light, 18 to 30°C away from draughts, high humidity, an open mix of ericaceous compost, perlite and orchid bark, room-temperature rainwater or filtered water when the mix is nearly dry, feeding from April to October, and removing spent flowers. Repot every two or three years, keep leaves dry if blight appears, and keep it away from pets.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much light does an anthurium need?

Bright, indirect light, such as an east- or west-facing window, or a south-facing one with a net curtain (RHS). Too little light stops flowering.

How often should I water an anthurium?

When the compost is approaching dryness about 5 cm (2 in) down, using room-temperature rainwater or filtered water (RHS). Water less in winter and never leave it soggy.

Why are my anthurium leaves turning brown?

Usually dry air (RHS, NC State), or scorch from direct summer sun (RHS). Raise the humidity and move it out of strong sun.

Why is my anthurium not flowering?

Most often too little light (RHS, NC State). Give it brighter indirect light, feed from April to October, and remove old flowers.

Can I use tap water for my anthurium?

The RHS recommends rainwater or filtered water at room temperature, since tap water in hard-water areas can harm anthuriums.

Is anthurium toxic to cats?

Yes. The ASPCA lists the flamingo flower as toxic to cats, dogs and horses because of insoluble calcium oxalates, and NC State lists anthuriums as toxic if eaten.

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